U nas Boże Ciało, a ja tymczasem podglądam Balijczyków obchodzących właśnie jedno z najważniejszych, hinduistycznych świąt w roku – Galungan.
Galungan to szczególny dzień celebrowany na Bali co sześć miesięcy, w którym duchy przodków zstępują na ziemię, aby pozostać z ziemskimi rodzinami przez następne dziesięć dni. Niezwykle piękny, kolorowy dzień. Triumfalny moment świętowania zwycięstwa dobra nad złem. Bogato przystrojone ulice, pieczołowicie udekorowane rodzinne kaplice i piękni, odświętnie wystojeni ludzie. Całe miasta i wsie mienią się kolorami tradycyjnych sarongów, które tego dnia noszą mieszkańcy oraz bambusowych dekoracji symbolizujących dostatek i mądrość. Ulice pokryte są tu i ówdzie rozrzuconymi w nieładzie pudełeczkami z ofiarą z kwiatów, owoców i kadzideł. Najpiękniejszy obraz jednak tworzą kobiety, które ze stanowczą lekkością noszą na głowach kolorowe kosze wypełnione darami dla bogów. Dzisiejszy krajobraz Bali to mieszanina barw, zapachów i dźwięków, ale przede wszystkim to wyraźna, silnie zakorzeniona kultura, która nadaje temu miejscu wyjątkowy charakter i stoi murem, pomimo coraz mocniej wdzierającej się na wyspę fali turystyki.
Galungan rozpoczyna dziesięciodniowy, świąteczny festiwal, który zakończy się świętem Kuningan – obchodzonym równie dostojnie. Wynajmuję pokój w domu balijskiej rodziny w Ubud, więc nieśmiało podpatruję obchody Galungan już od etapu przygotowań. Mężczyźni przygotowują ogromne, dekoracyjne bambusowe pale (penjory), aby następnie stabilnie umocować je wzdłuż ulic, kobiety zaś gotują tradycyjne ryżowe ciasta. Sam świąteczny dzień balijskie rodziny spędzają razem, w swoich wioskach, miasteczkach i domach. Świętowanie Galungan rozpoczyna się od wspólnej modlitwy w niewielkich rodzinnych świątyniach (te wyrosły właściwie przy każdym domu, nadając Bali absolutnie osobliwy, przepełniony duchowością klimat). Następnie dorośli i dzieci, matki, bracia, babki i stryjowie wspólnie wybiorą się do lokalnych świątyń aby w otoczeniu kwiatowych dywanów i rozbrajająco pachnących mgieł kadzideł złożyć dary bogom i modlić się o ich łaskawość. Nie ma określonej godziny wizyty w świątyni, ludzie więc przychodzą, modlą się i wychodzą – całość trwa nie dłużej niż 15 minut. Jestem w świętym miejscu, jednak nie czuję przesadnego wydumania ani nadmiernej powagi. Balijczycy uśmiechają się i żartują, rozmawiają i pozdrawiają. Niektórzy łamanym angielskim podpytują mnie skąd jestem i czy widziałam już tarasy ryżowe. Inni zapraszają mnie głębiej do świątyni i częstują owocami składanymi bogom jako dary. I każdy, absolutnie każdy poszczególny człowiek odwzajemnia przyjacielsko uśmiech i ochoczo dzieli się ze mną tradycją tego dnia. Przepełnia ich duma ze swojej kultury, a ja jako turysta raczej czuję się w ich otoczeniu jak student tej niezwykłej kultury, niż intruz.
Popołudniu, gdy cała rodzina spotyka się w domu na wspólny posiłek, ja – mimo że zaproszona do stołu – cichutko wymykam się do swojego pokoju, aby spisać pamiętnik z dzisiejszego dnia. Rodzinna atmosfera, którą stworzyli i piękną gościnność, którą mnie obdarowali są niezwykle ujmujące, ale przypomniawszy sobie przy tej okazji o świętach z moją rodzina, które pominęłam i spotkaniach z przyjaciółmi, które odbyły się beze mnie – zatęskniłam za tym naszym „siedzeniem przy stole” i „serniczkiem”. Jestem jednak spokojna, bo wiem, że miejsce przy stole czeka na mnie, wśród wianuszka zaabsorbowanej przygotowaniami, acz wesołej rodzinki, albo na ulubionej kanapie u najlepszej przyjaciółki z michą popcornu pomiędzy nami;)
Jeżeli dobrze kojarzę, to Bali jest mało popularnym kierunkiem podróży. Chyba to dobrze, ponieważ takie miejsca są niezmienne przez długi okres czasu, a niestety zdarza się, że turystyka zabija piękno niektórych miejsc.
Marta, Bali jest bardzo, bardzo popularnym kierunkiem podróży;) Szczególnie dla Australijczyków. Masz rację turyści zadeptują kulturę, choć ta wciąż trwa na Bali, mimo potężnej fali turystów.
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